Review: The North Borneo Sunset Train to Muara Sungai Benoni

It was a Thursday when I fell into the TikTok spiral (again) and saw someone post a glorious sunset at a beach in Papar… from a train. Not just any train—The North Borneo Heritage Train. You know, the one that looks like it belongs in a movie where someone’s solving a murder or having a secret affair with a British diplomat.

I remember thinking, “That train is expensive. And they normally only run tours for tourists.”

But listen. I’m from Papar. Born and baju-kurung-wet-from-beach-days raised. I know Papar’s beautiful. I also know we’ve got beaches and estuaries that could go toe-to-toe with the Amalfi Coast… if people actually stopped to look. And here was this train, heading toward one of those hidden gems—Muara Sungai Benoni—for a full sunset session, minus the mosh pit that is Tanjung Aru Beach at 6:12pm.

Seriously. Every time I’ve been to Tanjung Aru for sunset, I felt like I was at some kind of spiritual rave. People everywhere. Influencers posing like they invented the sun. Aunties setting up folding chairs like it’s open-air bingo. I love it... but also, I wanted something quieter.

So when I saw that train clip, I thought: This is my chance. To ride the fancy train, to go home (but like, romantically), and to finally see a Papar sunset the way it deserves to be seen.

So, I checked it out and—plot twist—turns out you can book the ride directly on railway.sabah.gov.my for just RM100 per person. No fancy packages. No food. No tour guide waving a flag. Just the train, the ride, and the sunset.

I floated the idea to my husband. He said yes before I could finish the sentence (he loves anything that involves not planning). So off we went—me, my husband, and our 19-month-old toddler—on a sunset journey to my hometown.

The Ride

Boarding was smooth at Tanjung Aru Station. The train left at exactly 4:00 PM, and to my surprise—there were steam clouds! I genuinely felt like I had boarded the kampung version of the Hogwarts Express. All that was missing was a nasi lemak trolley and an owl named Bujang.

Now, I’ve got to tell you about my toddler.

He was ecstatic. His eyes lit up the moment he saw the train waiting at the platform. It was like the wooden train set from his grandmother had suddenly come to life—but bigger, louder, and huffing steam like a dragon after a good meal. He kept shouting, “Train! Train!” with that pure toddler joy that makes your heart melt and your camera roll explode.

This was his first real-life train ride, and every moment of it was magic to him. The clouds of steam, the clunky chug-chug sounds, the shaky tracks—he was glued to the window. Watching the world pass by, pointing at trees, rivers, goats—basically anything that moved. He even burst into laughter when the train jolted a little extra, like it was playing peekaboo with him.

And me? I just watched him. That look of wonder, the quiet little gears turning in his head as he tried to make sense of it all—that’s the stuff that fills your mum heart right up. New experiences that spark curiosity, stretch imagination, and remind you why you said “yes” to a random train ride in the first place.

So yeah, this trip? Brilliant idea. 10/10 would choo-choo again.

🧃Onboard Details (aka What You Should Know)

• Ticket: RM100 flat, booked directly from the railway website.

• No food or drinks provided, but you’re welcome to bring your own. Just don’t be that person who leaves a nasi lemak wrapper on the floor, okay? Respect the train.

• Seats: Simple but comfy enough. No air-cond, but the windows are wide open and the breeze is chef’s kiss.

This is not a luxury cruise on rails. It’s not curated or Instagram-filtered. It’s authentic, and that’s the charm.

🌅 The Benoni Stop

About an hour and a half in, the train stopped at Muara Sungai Benoni, and we were allowed to get off for a good 30–40 minutes.

And let me tell you—the sunset delivered.

That wide-open view of the estuary, the orange-pink sky reflecting off the water, the gentle breeze coming off the sea… magic. Some people posed for TikToks, others just stood there in silence. Even my toddler stared for a bit like he was trying to process how the sky turned into a giant fruit popsicle.

It felt like a secret moment in a not-so-secret place.

💤 The Ride Back

The return leg was quieter. The sun had dipped behind the horizon, the sky shifted from tangerine to twilight, and the gentle chug of the train lulled everyone into that post-sunset coma.

Guess who fell asleep?After soaking up all that sunset glory, running wild by the beach, splashing in the water, and screaming “Train! Train!” a hundred times like it was his personal anthem—my little boy crashed hard. His tiny body finally waved the white flag, and within minutes of settling back into his seat, he was out cold. I looked over at my husband, who looked like he was ready to pass out too, and all I could think was: This... was totally worth it. Peaceful train. Sleeping toddler. Full hearts.

And the best part? No traffic jam to kill the vibe. Just the rhythmic hum of the train rocking us home like a lullaby from the kampung gods.

✅ Final Verdict

• Price-worthy? 100%.

• Family-friendly? Yes, with supervision. Bring snacks, wipes, and a sense of humour.

• Crowd level? Chill. Mostly locals, a few tourists, and one guy who brought a tripod and took 94 photos of his ankles.

• Instagram factor? Strong. But more importantly—soul-refreshing.

If you’re a local who’s never taken the train, do it. If you’re from Papar like me, do it for the nostalgia. And if you’re just chasing sunsets with a toddler and some tapau snacks—this is one of the best RM100 you’ll ever spend in Sabah.

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T4Tots Reviews: Real Parents, Real Talk

Let’s get one thing straight: these are not paid reviews. No shady sponsorships, no “we’ll give you free Milo packets if you say something nice.” Nah. Our reviews come straight from real parents with real kids and real concerns — the kind who will tell you if a place is worth the Grab ride, or if it’s just another “look nice on Instagram, cry in real life” kind of spot. Basically, these reviews are the unfiltered, parent-approved version of the truth. If something’s good, we’ll rave. If something’s bad, well… consider yourself warned. Because at T4Tots, we’re not here to sugarcoat. We’re here to save your weekend, your sanity, and maybe even your bank account.